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  During the last week of October we hiked from Riksgränsen to Abisko in Swedish Lapland together with Thunder (4.5 years old) and Tuisku (3.5 years old).   We studied the weather report carefully before departing, making sure no major storm was on the horizon. Mountain weather can be unpredictable, but we were fortunate to have clear skies and nearly no wind for most of our journey. As a security measure we had brought along a bivi bag and snow shovels, enabling us to build and spend the night inside a bivouac if necessary.  The first half of our hike was mainly uphill.  Winter hiking offer many advantages; smaller brooks are often frozen and easy to cross and the iridescent northern lights are fantastic to watch against the dark winter sky. Also, outside peak hiking season you have the scenery and trail all to yourself. It's worth noting that the major mountain stations in the northern fell areas of Sweden are closed by October but there is usually a so-called "emergency room" that is open during all seasons. Bringing a tent or bivi bag is crucial, but during a really chilly night it is nice to also be able to use the basic indoor facilities available.   We stopped for lunch at Stuor-Kärpel wind shelter which is situated in a rugged terrain. During part of our hike we followed reindeer tracks rather than the waymarked trail, as reindeer are experts at finding safe and easy traveled paths in the mountains. Luckily, they were heading in the same direction as we.  Tête a tête  On a mountain ridge near Láirečorru, 1000m above the ocean, we came across fresh wolverine tracks.  Unfortunately we did not manage to catch a glimpse of this elusive predator. I had a feeling, though, he was watching us...   Tuisku is an excellent pathfinder who prefers to lead.  See that spark in Thunder's eye? Hard work makes a Malamute happy.  Johann and Tuisku fetching drinking water from an open creek. After drinking melted snow for most of our hike, it was very refreshing to finally drink some real water. Melting snow takes time (especially when you're also providing water for two dogs) and while it tastes similarly, snow does not offer the same hydration as real water.   One of many advantages of bringing pack dogs along on your hike is that you are able to bring some extra gear. We both packed an extra pair of boots in Tuisku's and Thunder's backpacks and after getting my feet wet when crossing the Valfojåkka river, I was sure glad to be able to change into warm, dry boots afterwards!  Ideally, we would have liked to take it slower and have more time to take in the scenery, but since daylight is limited in late October we had to focus on reaching our overnight camps before dusk.  We spent one night in Valfojåkka Mountain Shelter, situated high above the Valfojåkka river and waterfall. It took many hours to heat up this frozen cabin and we were glad we had brought down sleeping bags to keep us warm in subzero temperatures. Since we were alone on the trail we were able to bring the dogs inside at night. The boys would perhaps have been happier sleeping outdoors but, as we found lots of different animal tracks in the snow surrounding the cabin, we preferred to keep an eye on our buddies at night.  Between Valfojåkka and Unna Allakas we hiked through waist-deep snow for a couple of kilometers. This was far easier for Thunder and Tuisku than it was for us. October is usually the last month of the year that you're able to hike in the mountains without snowshoes or skis. But since every winter is different, checking the current snow report before departure is crucial when planning a safe and enjoyable trip.    Heading down towards Sjangeli, a former copper mine in the middle of the mountains.    After spending two nights in Unna Allakas we walked for two days along Kungsleden, towards Abisko.   In this photo it looks like Thunder is crossing the brook in front of me. In reality, Johann and I always crossed the waterpaths with each dog behind us, checking the depth of water and safety of the ice before allowing them to cross. The dogs got their feet and legs wet a couple of times but kept their bodies dry at all times which is important when hiking in cold weather. Crossing rivers was probably the most time-consuming element of our hike as we often had to walk long distances up and down the river, searching for the best place to go across.  Studying the map on the way to Abisko. The heavy snowfall during our fourth day quickly covered up our path.  In the early evening of the fifth day we reached the goal of our hike - the village of Abisko, situated by the large lake of Torneträsk.   We were ALL pretty exhausted after the trip ! Return | |